30.3.2025 11:00 AM

Mothers and Magnums

It’s difficult to talk about Mother’s Day as a commercial hostelry without coming across as some combination of mawkish and grasping, referring to ‘Mum’ in the third person like a provincial solicitor drafting a will. In what may be the first and last quote from a Swiss person in these ramblings, we like Cardinal Mermillod’s line, “a mother is she who can take the place of all others but whose place no one else can take.” That wasn’t too bad, was it?

Maybe we’ll leave it at this, The Blue Stoops is open for mothering Sunday and the booking link is here. Looking at the book, I’d say you’re going to have most luck with a high tea 5.30 onwards, it is looking very busy earlier. A reminder that our last sitting on a Sunday is at 6.30.

Spring dishes include, as I write (though the menu changes daily):

Romana Courgette, White Bean, Tomato Broth and Pea

Stracciatella, Pea Shoots, Hazelnut Dressing

As usual on a Sunday we will have a convivial magnum of wine open. On this occasion a light Morgon Cote de Py 2022 from Monsieur Foillard. The gents at Farr Vintners described it thus “The 2022 Morgon Côte du Py has a wonderful mineralité and tension. Very composed. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little sturdier than the Cuvée Corcelette. There’s fine grip toward the finish with a persistent peppery aftertaste.”  

If you don’t like pepper in your wine, ask for The Blue Book, our marvellous hand-written compendium of vinous rarities and choose something to properly mark the day. Or just order a bottle of the house red, a delicious Nero d’Avola from Borgo Selene in Sicily.  There is also that most superior of Mothers who might prefer a frothing, hand-pulled pint of Allsopp’s ale! Admittedly a rarer species in W8 then in our ancestral heartland of Burton-upon-Trent!

Magnums of Morgon Cote de Py 2022 from Jean Foillard:

Glass (125ml) £19

Carafe (500ml) £70

House Red: Borgo Selene 2023, Sicily

Glass £7, Bottle £38

Allsopp's Best Bitter, £5.50/Pint